How to Remove Lipstick Stains From Clothes and Napkins

Published by StainWise Editorial Team, founded and directed by Michael McCormick · August 12, 2026

Lipstick is a small stain that causes disproportionate trouble, because it combines three things that each need different handling:

  • Waxes (beeswax, carnauba, candelilla) that give it structure and make it smear when warmed
  • Oils that carry the colour and resist water
  • Highly concentrated dyes and pigments, including staining dyes in long-wear formulas that are specifically designed to bond and not come off

That last point matters. A long-wear or "transfer-proof" lipstick contains dye chemistry intended to fix to a surface. On a napkin or a white collar, that is exactly what it does. Meanwhile the wax and oil form a barrier that stops water-based cleaning from ever reaching the colour.

The order is therefore fixed: lift the wax mechanically, break the oil, then deal with the dye.

What You'll Need

  • Ice or a freezer bag of ice cubes
  • A dull knife, spoon edge or old credit card
  • Clear dish soap
  • Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
  • Liquid laundry detergent
  • Oxygen bleach for whites and sturdy washables
  • 3% hydrogen peroxide for white cotton
  • White cloths and cotton buds
  • Cool water

Act Quickly

  1. Do not rub. Lipstick wax softens with body heat and friction, so rubbing turns a defined mark into a large pink smear driven deep into the weave. This is the mistake that causes most lipstick disasters.
  2. Chill it. Hold ice against the mark, or put a small garment in the freezer for 15 minutes, until the wax is firm.
  3. Scrape the hardened wax away with a dull edge, working from the outer edge towards the centre.
  4. Place a clean white cloth beneath the fabric before applying anything liquid, so dissolved dye has somewhere to go other than sideways.

Step-by-Step Removal Instructions

  1. Chill the mark and scrape off all solid lipstick. This removes the bulk of the stain before any chemistry is involved.
  2. Degrease. Apply clear dish soap directly to the remaining mark and work it in gently with a fingertip. Leave 15 minutes so the surfactants can emulsify the oil and residual wax.
  3. Rinse in cool water from the reverse of the fabric.
  4. Assess. You will typically be left with a clear pink or red dye mark — the wax and oil are gone and the colourant is exposed.
  5. Treat the dye. Apply isopropyl alcohol to a cotton bud and work from the outside of the mark inwards, blotting frequently onto the white cloth underneath. Change the cloth as it picks up colour. This is the step that removes lipstick dye; nothing water-based will.
  6. Rinse thoroughly.
  7. Apply liquid laundry detergent and launder at the warmest temperature the care label allows.
  8. Inspect while damp. If a pink tint remains on sturdy washables, soak in oxygen bleach per the product label for several hours, then rewash. On white cotton only, a dab of 3% hydrogen peroxide clears stubborn residual colour.
  9. Do not tumble dry until the mark has entirely gone.

Removing Lipstick From Different Fabrics

Cotton and Linen

Best case. Both tolerate alcohol, oxygen bleach soaks and peroxide on whites, so even a long-wear lipstick on a white cotton napkin usually comes out completely. Because cotton absorbs readily, work inwards carefully and change the backing cloth often. See cotton care and linen care.

Polyester

Polyester holds the oil and wax component tightly, so degrease twice. It releases dye moderately well with alcohol. Keep temperatures moderate — heat sets residue permanently in synthetics. See polyester care.

Denim

Sturdy. Chill, scrape, degrease, treat with alcohol, wash inside out. Spot-test alcohol on dark or raw denim, where indigo can lift and leave a pale patch. See denim care.

Wool

Common on wool coat collars and scarves. Chill and scrape carefully — do not pick at the fibres. Use cool water with a wool-safe detergent for the oil. No chlorine bleach, no peroxide, no hot water, no enzyme detergents (enzymes digest protein and wool is protein). Alcohol in tiny amounts on a cotton bud may be tolerated but must be spot-tested for dye movement. Blot only; rubbing felts wool permanently. See wool care.

Silk

The highest-risk fabric. Silk cannot take bleach or peroxide, water-rings very easily, and alcohol can dull or mark it — while lipstick dye genuinely needs a solvent. Chill and lift the wax very gently, dab with a trace of pH-neutral detergent on a cloth, feather the damp area outwards, then stop. Lipstick on a silk blouse or tie is a clear case for professional cleaning rather than experimentation. See silk care.

Upholstery

Chill and scrape, then apply a weak dish soap solution with a damp cloth. For remaining dye, use alcohol very sparingly on a cotton bud, blotting constantly, and always spot-test first — alcohol can remove upholstery dye as readily as lipstick dye. Check the manufacturer's cleaning code. Do not saturate the cushion. See upholstery care.

Carpet

Chill, scrape, apply dish soap solution sparingly, and blot inwards. Treat residual dye with alcohol on a cloth, testing in a hidden area first. Work slowly and repeat; scrubbing spreads pink dye through the pile and splays the fibres. See carpet care.

How to Remove Dried or Set-In Lipstick Stains

Once lipstick has dried and especially once it has been through a dryer, the wax has set and the dye has bonded.

  1. Scrape off any remaining surface wax.
  2. Apply dish soap and leave 30 minutes to soften the set wax. Repeat this step — softening is the limiting factor on an old mark.
  3. Rinse, then work the dye with alcohol on a cotton bud, blotting onto a fresh white cloth. Expect to repeat this several times, changing the cloth each round.
  4. Launder with liquid detergent.
  5. Inspect damp. Soak sturdy washables in oxygen bleach for several hours; finish white cotton with 3% hydrogen peroxide if needed.
  6. Repeat before applying heat.

Long-wear and matte liquid lipsticks are the hardest, because their dye chemistry is designed to fix permanently. Expect substantial improvement rather than a guaranteed clean result. See how to remove set-in stains.

What NOT to Do

  • Don't rub. Body heat and friction melt the wax and spread the dye. Chill and scrape instead.
  • Don't apply heat or hot water at the start. It melts wax into the weave.
  • Don't skip degreasing and go straight to alcohol. The wax film blocks it.
  • Don't work from the centre outwards. Always work inwards onto a backing cloth.
  • Don't tumble dry until the mark is gone.
  • Don't use chlorine bleach on wool, silk, spandex blends or coloured fabric.
  • Never mix chlorine bleach with ammonia, vinegar, other acids or rubbing alcohol. This is particularly important here, since alcohol is central to the method — keep them entirely separate and rinse well between treatments.
  • Don't use acetone or nail polish remover on acetate, triacetate or modacrylic; it dissolves them.
  • Don't use hairspray. It contains little alcohol now and adds polymers that worsen the stain.

Always follow the product label and garment care instructions. Never mix cleaning chemicals unless the product manufacturer specifically instructs you to do so.

Why This Method Works

Each stage targets one component, and the order is dictated by which layer blocks the next.

The wax is a solid at room temperature and softens with warmth. Chilling it takes it firmly below its softening point so it fractures and lifts cleanly instead of smearing — pure mechanical removal, and it takes out most of the stain's mass before any product is used.

The oil is hydrophobic and forms a barrier. Dish soap surfactants, with an oil-attracting tail and water-attracting head, surround the oil droplets and hold them suspended so rinsing removes them. Until this happens, nothing can reach the colour.

The dye is the real stain. Lipstick colourants — including insoluble lake pigments and, in long-wear formulas, staining dyes with genuine affinity for surfaces — do not dissolve in water at all. Isopropyl alcohol is a polar organic solvent that dissolves and disperses them. Crucially, dissolving a dye is only half the job: it must then be absorbed away, which is why the white cloth beneath the fabric and the inward blotting motion are part of the mechanism rather than optional technique.

Oxygen bleach and hydrogen peroxide finish by oxidising the chromophore of any remaining organic dye, destroying the colour where physical removal has plateaued. See oxygen bleach vs chlorine bleach.

When to Call a Professional

  • Silk, wool, cashmere, and any dry-clean-only garment
  • Lipstick on ties, formalwear, wedding attire and tailored collars
  • Long-wear lipstick on light-coloured upholstery
  • Any item where the dye remains after two full home cycles and the piece matters to you

Tell the cleaner it is lipstick and mention that you have used alcohol, if you have. It changes their approach.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why does lipstick smear so badly when I try to wipe it? Because the wax base softens at body temperature. Wiping warms and spreads it. Chilling the mark first is what makes clean removal possible.

Is long-wear lipstick harder to remove? Yes, significantly. Transfer-proof formulas use staining dyes and film-forming polymers designed to bond and resist removal. Expect to repeat the alcohol stage several times.

Can I use makeup remover instead of alcohol? An oil-based remover helps with the wax and oil, and micellar water is a gentler option for the dye stage. Both are slower than alcohol but safer on delicate dyes. If you use an oil-based remover, you must then wash the oil out with dish soap.

Why does the stain look worse after I apply alcohol? Alcohol dissolves the dye and briefly spreads it. That is why an absorbent cloth beneath the fabric and inward blotting are essential — the dye leaves through the cloth rather than into the garment.

Does hand sanitiser work? It contains alcohol and can work in a pinch, but the added gelling agents and moisturisers leave residue you then have to wash out. Plain isopropyl alcohol is better.

Will lipstick come out of a white cotton napkin completely? Usually yes. White cotton is the ideal case, because it tolerates alcohol, oxygen bleach soaks and hydrogen peroxide.

Not Sure What the Stain Is?

Pink and red marks could be lipstick, blusher, wine, berry juice or fabric dye transfer, and the correct first step is different for each. Not sure what caused the stain? Use StainWise to identify the stain from a photo and get a customized cleaning recommendation.

Identify My Stain

Related reading: makeup stains, foundation stains, candle wax stains, preventing colour bleeding.

Related guides